Introduces: protagonist, antagonist, setting, core wound, primary conflict.
I’m planning another trip to Baja with my husband Tom. This time, though, requires a different kind of inquiry than my normal pre-trip research. Instead of going to Google and typing in “Bird species found on Isla San Benito” or “Gray whale behavior in Laguna San Ignacio”, I type “Travel regulations for human ashes”.
I’m going on a natural history trip, living aboard a 95-foot sportfishing boat to explore the deserted coves and rugged shorelines of Baja. To revel in the extraordinary wildlife – blue whales, albatross, century plants, parrotfish. Tom and I had been naturalists on similar trips in years past, and Tom requested that his ashes be scattered in the Sea of Cortez. He died two years ago, and I am finally ready to take this final trip with him.
The first result is “For domestic travel, the TSA allows you to bring cremated remains onto the plane either in your carry on or in your checked luggage.” Digging a little deeper, I got to “Of the “big three” American carriers, United Airlines and American Airlines require cremated remains to be transported with carry-on baggage.” I’m flying United Airlines from San Francisco to San Diego, where the boat trip begins, so I need to bring him with me as carry-on. TSA requires a copy of his death certificate and cremation paperwork.
February 7, 2020 – Day One
I arrive at SFO early, ready for the flight to San Diego, where the trip begins. I check my duffle bag stuffed with snorkel gear, rain gear, clothes for twelve days. I shift my weight from one foot to another while I wait in the TSA line, watching the agents, the other passengers. My precious cargo is cushioned in my rolling backpack, packed with my journal. After the roll-aboard goes down the conveyor belt and through x-ray, the TSA agent pulls my bag aside for a further security check. I brace myself for a lengthy explanation and inspection of the paperwork. I start to pull out the documents, hoping to get through this without bursting into tears. The agent is calm, respectful, and after my quiet “Those are my husband’s ashes”, he takes a quick look in the bag and waves me on without questions or paperwork. I take a deep breath, grab my bag and head for the gate.
The flight is uneventful, just the nerves and speculations about what will happen on this trip. I sleep fitfully after the stress of packing. A friend picks me up at the airport and takes me to Fisherman’s Landing, the marina where Searcher is docked.
I walk down the dock, breathing in the familiar salt air and climb up the portable stairs to get level with the deck. I step through the gap in the railing to board Searcher, this beautiful boat of memories. Celia, one of the owners, walks out of the salon and gives me a big hug, “Welcome back!”.
“My god, it’s been so long, it’s so great to see you!” I say, smiling and squeezing her hands. I reach out and stroke the shiny teak railing with affection. Then Art, the other owner and captain, comes aboard, belting out, “Where have you been Lewis, we’ve been here!”. I always like it when he calls me by my last name, makes me feel like part of the crew.
Despite my excitement and the anticipation for all the incredible experiences I know I’ll have over the next twelve days, I’m anxious. So many fears churning around in my head. Fear of seasickness, fear of asthma issues when snorkeling - Tom always had my back when things didn’t go well. I need to remember I’ve done it without him before, but that was a different life, different situation. I’m hoping this physical letting go, scattering of his ashes, will allow me to release his spirit.
Yet, I’m afraid of that too.
Other passengers start to come aboard - Trina from Marin, Barbara and Stan from England, just a few of the other twenty adventurers. People wander in and out of the salon after getting their cabins organized, grab some coffee, sit down to get oriented. I pull tight against the outer wall in one of the booths, rest my elbow on the table bordered with teak railing and a teal carpeted surface - it keeps the plates from sliding when the boat is rocking. Surrounded by people, I still feel alone.
Trina sits down across from me, then Barbara and Stan join the six-person booth, the four of us strangers who will soon be friends as we explore Baja.
“Where are you from?” Trina asks.
“Half Moon Bay, CA.” I say, then take a sip of tea from the logo’ed Searcher mug.
She asks “Have you seen whales before?”
I want to say Yes, I’ve been out on boats watching whales for more than thirty years but try not to be arrogant and simply say “Yep, lots of times. They’re amazing!”
Barbara asks me, “Have you been to Baja before?”
“Many times, twelve times on Searcher“.
Stan says “Wow!”, and I explain that my husband Tom and I used to lead these trips years ago. The subsequent questions get more challenging.
“Where is he?”
“Did he come with you this year?”.
I stutter, say “No,” as I glance away. Then, with a slight smile, “Well, actually, he is. He’s down in the stateroom, under my bunk in a shiny red, silk bag.”
Art starts the orientation at eight PM. Paul and Marc, this year’s naturalists, gather everyone into the salon to talk about the details and logistics of the trip. I start to feel overwhelmed with memories, thinking about the people who are here for their first time, how I felt the first time I came on this boat some thirty years ago.
I retreat from listening and gaze through the windows, picturing Tom when he was the one who gave this talk, him and me at the front of the salon introducing ourselves. I would have been wearing my ‘first day of the trip’ attire - a turquoise and gray striped shirt, collared, tucked into comfy blue jeans, my leather belt from college just barely fitting anymore. Tom was in his sage green vest, worn and frayed, the red-plaid flannel lining poking through in a few places. We stood in the galley, set off from the passengers.
“Welcome everyone, I’m Tom and welcome aboard Searcher – hope you’re excited! Linda and me…”
I interrupted with “It’s ‘Linda and I’”.
Did I just do that? Correct him in front of all these people?
After a sidewise glare and frown my way, he continued to explain the schedule of hiking, whale watching and snorkeling that would take place over the next twelve days.
Why was I so arrogant to think I was smarter than he was? Quick to correct him?
Bringing my focus back to tonight, I can’t help but be excited, and smile as I search the salon for Carol. A close friend of Tom’s and mine, she’s accompanying me for this personal ceremony of letting go. There to hold and support me.
***
This wasn’t my first trip to Baja without Tom.
Memorial Day 1994, 26 years ago, had been brilliant, perfect for the lazy day ahead. I looked forward to the evening, steaks and baked potatoes, just the two of us. The pyramid of charcoal briquets was ready to be lit when Tom said, “We need more lighter fluid, I’ll run to the store to buy some” and he drove away.
I finished prepping dinner, made some fresh lemonade (it’s the slightest pinch of salt in the simple syrup that makes it special), then sat down to wait. And I waited. Tossed the tennis ball to the dogs (Bristol always brought it back. Vince just chased it, then left it where it fell.). Sat on the front porch for a while, glanced at my watch. I began looking out the window any time I heard a car approaching. What was taking so darn long? Was there a huge run on lighter fluid because it was Memorial Day? Then I started listening for sirens – checked that the phone was working. Had he been in an accident?
More than two hours later he drove up to the house, trudged inside while gripping a rumpled brown bag with the lighter fluid, his eyes downcast. He headed directly to the backyard, saying “I need to talk to you” and guided me to sit next to him on our splintered picnic table bench. With no warning, he blurted out “I need to tell you I’m addicted to crack cocaine”.
Stunned, I stared at him. I didn’t even know what crack was, but ‘addicted’ and ‘cocaine’ I understood, and my stomach dropped.
My mind whirled and I tried to make sense of it. I thought back over the last months, and gradually the signs that I had missed came into focus. Individual events that didn’t seem significant on their own, but when added together revealed a problem. He had lost a lot of weight, looking rather slim for his normal bulk. Friends had asked me, “Tom looks great, how did he do it?” – now I knew. Every errand took longer than expected and he always eagerly volunteered for that quick run to Ralph’s to get a half gallon of milk that we didn’t really need right away. And the quick was never quick. His golf games stretched out to include drinks with his buddies afterwards. I should have paid attention the time there was a whale stranding and, instead of rushing to help with the necropsy, he stayed at the bar. He spent a lot of time in the backyard and in the garage. I thought he was spending quality time with the dogs.
It was a place to smoke his drugs out of my sight.
I asked him some questions – when did this start? Maybe he answered, “A couple months ago.” I hadn’t noticed that our meager savings account of about $2000 was now down to zero. “What?” I asked, another blow to my sense of security. “This was our account to pay our property taxes! How are we going to pay them now?” He seemed ashamed, embarrassed, and assured me that he would stop using, wouldn’t be spending any more on drugs. Taking him at his word, I assured him that I loved him, and we put the steaks on the grill.
He told me about his addiction because while out getting the lighter fluid, he thought that some cops had seen him – using or buying I’m not sure. Convinced they followed him home, he expected they would come to arrest him. He wanted to warn me before they came to the door. We didn’t talk much while we ate, appetites dulled – his from the drugs? Mine from fear and pain.
When time for bed, he decided to sleep in the living room, to be near the door when the police showed up. I climbed into our bed and tried to sleep. I must have dozed off, because he knocked on the door about 1am and softly said “They’re here.” My heart thumping, I pulled on some pants and went into the living room. I could see the flashing red and blue lights of the cop car right in front of the house. We stood in the living room, waiting for the knock.
After several minutes, we saw the lights start moving, and the cars drove away. We looked at each other, not sure what to do or think. We hung out for a while, expecting them to come back, but I eventually went back to bed to try to sleep so I could go to work in the morning. They never came back, he never got arrested.
Secretly glad that there had been this scare, I was sure that now he was “scared straight” and would stop using. That was the logical result.
Lesson learned. Life can continue as normal.