Harlow Robinson
CHAPTER TWO
TO THE FINLAND STATION
Finland was my first foreign country.
Before embarking for Leningrad, we spent a week there, staying outside Helsinki in what looked like college dormitories, nestled among the pines and birches. In my state of nearly delirious anticipation and jet lag I hardly slept at all, passing the days in a jumbled haze of impressions, lying awake at night, my heart beating fast. We took Russian language tests, and received daily briefings from a solemn posse of academic and government officials on the dangers and challenges of living in the USSR at the height of the Cold War. Soviet troops had marched into Prague just two years earlier, and the regime of Leonid Brezhnev enforced ideological conformity with a grim determination, persecuting dissidents like Andrei Sakharov and sending author and biologist Zhores Medvedev to a mental hospital. US-Soviet relations were fragile and fraught, as I was learning in my college courses on international relations.
So these men in suits wanted to scare us a little, and stressed that we had better behave ourselves or the Russians we met would think badly of the United States--especially since most of them probably would never have met a real-life American before.
"Remember that you are representing not only yourself, but your country," they reminded us as we sat obediently in a silent auditorium. "And be careful not to drink too much. It is an easy thing to do in Russia and can land you in trouble."
At this time, I was still under the legal drinking age in Connecticut, but had considerable experience of binge-drinking at college events where beer flowed like water. Vodka, I would learn, was an entirely different thing. And much more dangerous. After the first few glasses, you felt sharp, luminous, soaring. But after the third or fourth you got wobbly and silly and dizzy. After the fifth you were in the bathroom retching up dinner.
Even worse, we might get in trouble and land in a Soviet prison, a truly terrifying prospect. We felt important and apprehensive in our apparent role as citizen-diplomats. None of us wanted to start a nuclear war, or to be sent to the GULAG, of whose horrors we knew from the works of Alexander Solzhenitsyn and other reports.
In our free time I explored immaculately groomed Helsinki with fellow students, marveling at the strange Baltic food (plenty of sardines) and enjoying the beer in a country with no apparent drinking age. The architecture and monuments provided ample evidence of the pervasive Russian colonial influence that had shaped (or disfigured, depending on your point of view) Finnish history and culture since the time of Napoleon. To us cheerful Americans, the Finns seemed dour, quiet and excessively reserved. They avoided eye contact as we passed on the scrubbed streets.
"Don't these people ever smile?" asked my future Leningrad roommate, Walter, a handsome blonde from Princeton, smiling as he usually did. I developed a mild crush on him, but assumed he was straight, and we would go on double dates with our girlfriends in Leningrad. Years later, I found out through a mutual friend that he had come out and was gay and living in Santa Fe with his lover.
We guessed that all those years of living in a tiny nation next door to gigantic and often threatening Russia made the Finns fearful and wary. Later, during our time in Leningrad, we would see busloads of Finnish tourists arriving for a weekend of cheap binge drinking (liquor was much cheaper there) that left them staggering and embracing on the sidewalks, their Nordic inhibitions overcome by Russian vodka.
We were also busy figuring out who among our fellow students we liked and would want to befriend. From the start, I was drawn to Vera, a flirtatious, sunny girl with a charming crooked smile, and shining straight long blonde hair she sometimes wore in a peasant-style braid. She came from a devout Russian Orthodox family living in a Russian emigre enclave in New Jersey, and already spoke fluent Russian. The man she was dating when we met was even planning to become an Orthodox priest and wanted to marry her. (Orthodox priests can marry but only before they are ordained.) Not surprisingly, she regarded Communism with a profound loathing instilled by her parents and relatives, since the staunchly atheistic Soviet government actively persecuted Orthodox believers.
Vera (her name means faith in Russian) also loved to sing Russian folk songs, and knew the Orthodox liturgical music I had been learning in the Yale Russian Chorus. We got acquainted on a boat tour around Helsinki harbor and soon became constant companions. She was also a talented artist, and would draw funny caricatures of me and our fellow students.
With her by my side, I would see the USSR with a kind of double vision: as an American WASP with roots in Pilgrim New England, and as the child of nostalgic emigres forced to flee a beloved country and culture. She found it excruciating to listen to the endless propaganda lectures we would receive when we visited the magnificent palaces around the city built by the tsars. Many were still half in ruins 25 years after the Nazi assault upon the city. The guides inevitably pointed out the brutal injustice visited upon the Russian peasantry by the selfish aristocrats, and how Soviet power had brought enlightenment to the masses.
When the guides started in on their ideological rants, she would give me a sad look and move to the back of the crowd. She would tell me how the members of her family had suffered under Soviet rule, and managed to leave the country, beginning difficult new lives in America.
"I love Russia," she would say, "but I hate the Soviet government."
With Vera I could also present myself as straight. Judging by the stern warnings of the somber men in suits, and by what I already knew about Soviet oppression of any kind of "dissidence," I knew that having a girlfriend would be helpful in this alien environment. I was in awe of her fluency in Russian, such a valuable asset, giving her the ability to "pass" as a native. But above all, I liked Vera and enjoyed spending time with her--and she reciprocated those feelings. The knowledge that I was gay I pushed to the back of my mind as an inconvenience, something to be dealt with later.
For the coming months, I would also "pass" as a heterosexual, slipping into that identity that made getting along--especially here--so much easier. Vera was modest and discrete and did not make many sexual demands. We would become known as one of the summer's most recognizable and well-matched couples.